Take the free shuttle bus from town to the Fornet cable car, then hop on the Vallon cable car and the Cascade chairlift, which drops you off on the Glacier du Pissaillas. Best places to avoid crowdsįab Jolly, ski patroller/avalanche controllerĮveryone makes a beeline for Bellevarde: it’s the largest ski area and the access point for all the runs over in Tignes, but if you like the idea of having the slopes all to yourself, go to Fornet instead.
Anyone heading off piste should take a qualified instructor: we run various levels of off-piste telemark courses or, if you’re an alpine skier, check out Giles Lewis from The Development Centre: he has years of experience tracking down Val d’Isère’s best off-piste. For gentle terrain and stunning surroundings, head into the Tour du Charvet more competent skiers should follow a high traverse onto the Face du Charvet for a variety of routes for experts, the narrow, 40-degree Pisteurs corridor is reached after a 30-minute hike. One of my favourite areas is accessed by the Grand Pré chair, which offers terrain for novices and aficionados alike. You’re spoilt for choice if you’re after powder. Dick’s Tea Bar is a firm favourite and a Val d’Isère institution since 1979. Some people think it’s a bit bling, with its cowhide seat covers, but I find it chic and spacious and, after 7pm, there are resident DJs. For a more-relaxed vibe, I go to Le Jack, a lounge bar at the L’Aigle des Neiges hotel. As the night goes on, it transforms into the best house music bar in town and has just launched Le Cabaret du Face, with show dancers. My top choice for après ski is Cafe Face : the drinks on offer are great value and, at the beginning of the evening, there’s a really chilled ambience. Kelly Starlight, artistic director, La Folie Douce
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